2 button suit vs. 3 button suit

Alright, I'll admit, I don't regularly wear a suit to work and I'm not very familiar with the details of how a high quality suit should be worn or constructed. That said, I'm currently in the process of buying my first bespoke suit. I got measured today by my tailor and he has way too many options for me to even think about. If there are any more fashion conscious individuals on the board, I would love to hear your input. I am deciding between the following options:

1) 2-button vs. 3-button suit. I am 5'11" and my tailor told me that I should stick with a 2-button. He mentioned that only people above 6'3" should have a 3-button suit, especially in Finance/Wall Street. I've always felt more comfortable with 3 button suits, but he was strongly discouraging me from getting a 3 button. His 2-button suits seem to place the buttons a little bit higher, similar to a Zegna or Canali. Which one is more appropriate for business school/interviewing purposes?

2) Navy vs. Charcoal solid. I'm almost dead set on Navy. I have a charcoal pinstriped suit already that is off-the-rack, and it is decent.

3) 2 Side Vents vs. 1 Center Vent. Now we're getting to the part where it is too granular for me to even distinguish or care between some features. What are the purposes of each and which looks better? My tailor recommended 2 side vents.

4) Stitching on the lapel. My tailor recommended that I get a subtle stitching on the front lapel, and mentioned that it looks classy. I've never seen this and was a little bit hesitant. Is this gaudy?

Look at the picture below you and dress just like him, shades included. You won't look creepy. Not at all.

There's an old post regarding this stuff for aaudetat's sig other, but here's my take:


2 button = classic
3 button = modern


navy = youthful
charcoal = older


2 side vents = man of action
1 center vent = man of less action


huh?

Your tailor seems quite pushy. I'd go 3 button navy w/center vent and hold the bells and whistles.

"Action" eh - I guess now I know what I've been doing wrong. It's obviously the lack of 2 side vents in my wardrobe ensemble.

Either button configuration should work at your height. I'm fairly certain that extremely tall men should avoid 3-button suits due to the enormous amount of cloth that covers the torso (see the nba draft for some examples of this). You can also consider the 3/2 button roll where the suit has three buttons but the top button is a part of the lapel roll and is not meant to be buttoned.

Both navy and charcoal are classic colours. If you already have a charcoal suit then get a navy one.

Dual vents are considered more functional (less bunching when you sit down) but centre and ventless jackets are acceptable as well depending on your body type.

I don't know what you mean by "stitching on the front lapel." Do you mean hand-stitching on the lapel buttonhole?

I would go with your tailor, he sounds right to me.

By the way, a center vent always makes me think of a butler.

I also really don't like navy, I'm a classic black fan. I would skip the stitching though.

Isn't black reserved for funerals and posher events held at night?

I know this is obvious advice, but you really need to go with what looks the best on you. Try on different types/styles of suits and different colors. Bring an audience to solicit their opinions. For example, I have found that with my skin complexion that charcoal gray and any shade of brown looks great on me. There's nothing worse than having an awesome, well-cut, expensive suit, but the color looks horrible on you.

I thought it was only in the UK where black suits were considered funeral suits?

for women at least, black suits have been fine for work-wear...could be diff for guys

I Always go with 3.

Black suits are really not considered business attire - they do make you look like morticians and G-men.

Formal attire is something different. Yes black tie does call for black - but tuxedos rather than business suits. When events go super formal, attire shifts from black tie to white tie (coat and tails, and sometimes top hats and canes).

There's a well-known saying that you should never be remembered for what you wear in a business setting. You don't want to be wearing something so shabby that you stick out in a crowd; but you also don't want to be wearing stuff that is so expensive that the people recruiting you take note (I always leave the Rolex at home for recruiting events). In a recruiting setting, leave everything flashy at home (including but not limited to bright/fancy colors, french cuffs, shoes with buckles, suits with highly defined patterns or stripes, flashy shirts, and so on). I'm really just talking about attire for men; women have a lot more flexibility.

Going back to the black suit, it could cause you to stand out at a recruiting event. Many people will not notice, but there are definitely people that do not regard black suits as proper business attire. You want to do everything in your power to avoid getting dinged before you even open your mouth. Remember, it is never good to be remembered for your clothes at a recruiting event, no matter how good it sounds to you right no.

What are the accepted norms for vents?
I read that while single vent is more formal in USA, the double vent is more formal in UK! What about the suits without vent?

I was also wondering about the pleats on the pant. I prefer single pleat but read that, presently, only pleatless pants are formal!

Pleats come down to a preference issue.

I think pleats look "grandpa-style" pants, but that's just my opinion.

I think a suit needs vents on the jacket, but I don't think the number matters. My suits are all 3 button, but my friend in the UK had the most awesome suit cut for him with 2 buttons (I want to get some, though the lining they insist on is floral and a bit... well... I don't really like it). No pleats on the pants though. Ever.

Try them on and see which suits best - it really doesn't matter between the two, more on which just looks best for you.

It's all about the gorge!

I have three suits, and all I did all summer was wear the pants. No need for the jackets, or the ties. That should eliminate one bank from the set I could have been at (where apparently a light blue shirt, rather than white, might be OK. On a Friday).

Thanks for all of the tips everyone. I am going to go ahead and follow my tailors advice - Solid Navy, 2 buttons, 2 side vents.

I already have a 3 button in the closet, so it'll be nice to diversify a touch.

Does anyone have any pictures highlighting the difference between a pinstripe and a chalk stripe?

Don't get either.

Just got my new suit. Solid charcoal Zegna. Will wear with white shirt and red hermes power tie. Looks sharp as hell

I really like the fit of Zegna as well. I am a huge fan of the Hermes/Ferragamo/Vineyard Vines ties as well, but aren't they considered flashy for interviews? At least the ones with the animal/critter prints and what not?

I'm having a tough time deciding whether or not I want to go with a Zegna/Canali or a bespoke for my next suit. Regardless, I may personally just hold off on all of this until I get into a school and buy 3-4 suits prior to arriving on campus. The cheap Kenneth Cole may have to last one more season - at least it fits alright, I suppose.